ORINDA, CALIFORNIA – Bizarre as it might sound, why is fried chicken a subject of so much controversy? This mainstay of U.S. culinary culture, going back to the Old South, is viewed by wellness experts as terrible for one’s health.
Outside of great taste, fried chicken is high in cholesterol, trans fat, calories, carbs, grease, etc. This makes one of my beloved dishes end up on the woke culinary “do not call” list.
When it comes to high-end restaurants serving this delicacy, Casa Orinda stands out as the Mount Everest of classic American fried chicken.
Their iconic menu has its roots going back to when the restaurant was founded by Montana cowboy Jack Snow in 1932.
Casa Orinda was originally intended to feed workers constructing the first Caldecott Tunnel. He operated it along with his brother Tommy. The restaurant also featured poker tables and slot machines.
In 1965, Tommy was tragically murdered. The crime was never solved.
After Tommy’s death, Ivan Goyak was brought in as a partner. He took over as sole owner in 1978. This was eventually passed to his son John, who has been the proprietor to this day.
“New and Improved” does not apply to Casa Orinda’s fried chicken—or anything else they serve. Every menu item, being first-rate, goes back to the restaurant’s origin.
The fried chicken recipe starts with a mixture of flour and spices, custom milled for them. Its origin comes from none other than Harlan Sanders, prior to opening his Kentucky Fried franchises in the 1950s. As a vendor for Casa Orinda, the Colonel passed on his recipe on the condition it would never be revealed.
In serving some 33,000 orders of this delicacy each year, whole Mary’s Organic Chicken from Hanford, CA is utilized.
This is hand-cut into 8 pieces that are marinated in a mixture of water, milk, eggs, flour, and spices for 40 hours.
The final product is then cooked for 13 minutes in a Henny Penny Pressure Fryer.
The chicken is served with creamy mashed potatoes, fresh vegetables, and a biscuit from the pages of the James Beard Cookbook.
This masterpiece is completed by Steve’s Bees Honey. Culinary euphoria is realized!
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Outside of their signature dish, Casa Orinda is famous for other time-honored menu items. Every sauce and dressing is made from scratch.
They are tasted each day by General Manager Claudia Tata. She is concerned with consistency and quality for everything served.
Having held the GM position since 2013, this veteran restaurateur has an extensive culinary background going back to when she was a teenager. Managerial positions held by Tata have included the Lafayette Park Hotel, Napa Wine Train, and Paragon Restaurant.
Keeping the strong roots of Casa Orinda’s past glories, she has placed long-term employees into key staff positions.
Chef Lino has been working there for 27 years. He faithfully executes Casa’s traditional menu. Lino has added his own creations, such as chicken enchiladas with his mom’s red sauce recipe during the week. He also serves different specials each day utilizing seasonal ingredients.
A major crowd-pleaser at Casa Orinda has always been their prime rib. Served with creamy horseradish, a baked potato, and veggies, this huge portion of premium beef can easily be shared between a couple of diners.
There is also a wide selection of steaks, pork chops, lamb shanks, and other carnivore delights to please patrons.
Casa’s Italian roots are found in some seven North Beach–quality veal entrées. I am especially fond of the Veal Scallopini Marsala. Veal is also a key ingredient in their stuffed cannelloni.
On the pasta side, house-made ravioli with a dreamy béchamel sauce can be enjoyed by the entire table. The same goes for the Fettuccine Alfredo and the Linguine with Meatballs.
Casa Orinda does not miss a beat with their Caesar Salad with anchovies. Notable was the special pear gorgonzola with candied pecans salad served during my last visit.
If there is room for dessert, baker Jose prepares a carrot cake, lemon cheesecake pie, and fresh fruit crisps each day.
We consumed one of these creations, which was accompanied by a large scoop of vanilla ice cream. Despite being full, we consumed every morsel.
Going along with the ambiance of their Old West decor (including antique firearms) is a full bar and extensive wine list.
The only criticism I can make of Casa Orinda is that it is not a good place for dieters to venture. Heavy use of butter and cream goes back to a day when calories truly did not count!
Located at 20 Bryant Way in Orinda, Casa Orinda operates Wednesday through Sunday from 4 to 9 p.m., staying open an hour later on Fridays and Saturdays. Reservations are highly recommended. They can be made online at their website or through OpenTable. The restaurant can be reached at 925-254-2981.
