CONCORD, CALIFORNIA – Although it is the largest city in Contra Costa County by population, Concord has never been known as a hotbed of gourmet dining. The number of high-end, white-tablecloth restaurants can easily fit on one hand.
In this community where “families come first,” Luna Restaurant stands out as an upscale dining establishment that has offered excellent quality dining—among the best in the region. Under the direction of Chef-Owner Habib Jacifi, Luna has formulated a menu of Italian cuisine with a heavy Mediterranean flair from his native Morocco.
Habib literally opened the door at Luna’s founding, working as a sous chef with his uncle’s Italian format. He continued to toil there while gaining experience at the Blackhawk Grill, Fleur de Lys, and The Left Bank.
Growing restless from executing his uncle’s menu, Habib opened up Fiore in 2008. His Italian-fusion formula became the basis of Luna when he took over the restaurant five years later.
According to the flamboyant restaurateur, “We incorporate saffron, cumin, Ras el Hanout, and many other spices in our recipes.”
This is evident when one enters the 20-table restaurant, which features a full bar and wine selections. I always order the olive pesto dip, which features Greek olives, candied walnuts, basil, goat cheese, balsamic vinegar, and olive oil—served with warm French bread.
From there, an extensive selection of appetizers—from calamari to mussels—can be found. Newport Fish provides fresh oysters, shellfish, salmon, halibut, and other seafood delights.
With me, if it’s moving, it’s grooving. My favorite first dish is the carpaccio, comprised of beef filet, capers, and shaved Parmesan. There are also mushrooms stuffed with crab for a first course.
Various salad offerings can be found. Chef Habib makes sure fresh produce is utilized. For their Caprese, ripe tomatoes are blanched to bring out more flavor to enhance the mozzarella and basil, all covered with a balsamic vinaigrette. A fresh beet salad featuring goat cheese and candied walnuts is not to be missed.
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Their pastas feature large portions of Italian classics. The gnocchi with sausage, peas, and mushrooms in a creamy sauce is ideal as an entrée or to split for larger parties. I especially love the lasagna, topped with a classic béchamel.
For main courses, there is a steak and fresh fish special each day. I tried the ribeye with cremini mushrooms, cooked medium-rare to rare. It was perfect—meeting expectations beyond what can be found at most high-end local steakhouses.
Luna is well known for quality meat dishes. There is considerable Moroccan influence with their short ribs. Their lamb shanks are unsurpassed—this side of Zalla Kabob House in San Ramon. For those who are not consumed with woke guilt, Luna’s Veal Marsala and Piccata are of North Beach quality.
If there is room for dessert, they have several house-made delights. Most ordered is the tiramisu, with the word “Luna” outlined in dark chocolate, encrusted in a rich custard sauce. Their versions of crème brûlée and a rich chocolate molten cake are also popular.
From start to finish, Luna offers a high-quality dining experience. For desserts and other dishes, plates are artfully decorated to enhance one’s enjoyment. According to Habib, “People deserve a great destination for dinner, date night, or a special occasion.”
After 25 years, they should be proud of a job done well.
Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week, Luna Restaurant is located at 2118 Willow Pass, Concord. Ph: 925-691-4080.
Richard Eber is a local journalist. He got his start as a cub reporter on the Oregon Daily Emerald, moving on to become the City and Sports Editor of the UCSB Daily Nexus. He wrote columns about international commerce for the Daily Commercial News and for Tokyo-based Shipping. For the past dozen years, he has been a columnist for Halfway to Concord and the California Political News & Views. As a fourth-generation native of San Francisco, for the past eight years he has written restaurant reviews for the Diablo Gazette and the Concord Pioneer. His hobbies have included gardening, cooking, winemaking, and sports officiating. Richard can be reached at richeber9@gmail.com
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Rich chocolate molten cake?
I’m in.
And I’m always eager to try a new fish-of-the-day.
A mouth-watering review.
So nice that Richard Eber is now part of the Bay Area Telegraph.