CONCORD, CALIFORNIA – The local Taco Trail is a long, windy road consisting of over 40 businesses that proudly wear the taqueria label.
Each year, the Concord Visitors Center highlights these restaurants with a month-long promotion lasting until October 15th.
This year’s event was preceded by a gala featuring a Mariachi band at Los Portales Taqueria at 4305 Clayton Rd.
Contestants, using a bingo-like card, visit as many of these eateries as they can. The winner will be the individual who has been to the most of these places.
Even if Mexican cuisine has many common denominators, major differences in style, price, and quality are numerous. Contrasting approaches to cooking can be found in a city filled with culinary diversity.
Immigrants lacking language skills have often found themselves working in the restaurant trade as a means of supporting their families. Concord is no exception.
My own personal Taco Trail has led me to many of these destinations. These restaurants are judged on quality, location, price, and special attributes found in family-operated businesses.
1. Tortilleria El Molino
At the top of my list is Tortilleria El Molino at 1500 Monument Ave. For almost 25 years, Santiago and Victoria Morales have offered a balanced menu of burritos, sopas, and tacos utilizing their homemade tortillas. With a high volume, each dish features fresh ingredients.
My favorite menu item is the Bionicos drink/dessert. It consists of a fresh fruit cocktail of strawberry, apple, bananas, papaya, and mango, served in a yogurt–sweetened condensed milk sauce. Granola and shaved coconut top this masterpiece.
El Molino is also known for their tamales, pupusas, tortas, and enchiladas. Each Friday, they offer a delicious, second-to-none Chile Relleno plate. No wonder the place is so popular.
With the Morales empire growing with another location and a supermarket, their son Estevan has taken on a prominent role in managing their many business enterprises.
2. Taqueria Los Gallos
Close by to where I live can be found Taqueria Los Gallos at Todos Santos Square, and an Express branch open 24 hours a day at Park & Shop. Long hours, an exceptional salsa bar, and decent-quality food have made Los Gallos a favorite destination for those working the night shift.
In an isolated location at the back of Park & Shop—primarily relegated to dumpster pick-ups—can be found hidden gem Soledad Taqueria. For 31 years, owners Aurora and Ernesto Barrigan have offered homemade fare that has attracted a loyal clientele.
In addition to standard taco items, their menu features menudo, especially suited for hungry appetites and hangovers. On weekends, Soledad offers goat soup—a Mexican-style bouillabaisse with seven types of seafood. Homemade tortillas complement these dishes. Their fajitas are a gourmet treat that can be shared by the entire table.
3. El Faro
Also in the “oldies but goodies” category is El Faro on Monument Blvd. Operated for some 46 years by Hugo Ontiveros, they have served dependable, quality cuisine at a decent price.
Their food, served cafeteria-style, has always hit the spot.
I was first drawn to El Faro in my youth, having enjoyed their location in San Francisco while being employed as a bicycle messenger in the Financial District. It is still great after all these years!
4. Los Montanas Supermarkets
Another excellent place to enjoy the taqueria experience is the Los Montanas supermarkets on Monument Blvd and at Park & Shop. Their house-made tamales are especially enjoyed on the premises with a touch of enchilada sauce on top.
In addition, they offer a special: a pound of diced carnitas or chicken. Included is a 16 oz. container of refried beans, salsa, and a dozen tortillas. This is a great value for families, especially during the work week. Add a bit of shredded cheese to complete a quality meal for four.
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5. El Rancho Night Club
For large gatherings, El Rancho Night Club at 1450 Monument Blvd has excellent food and service, including killer margaritas. They also have a mobile truck—ideal as a catering solution.
6. Restaurant Bahia de Jiquilisco
A Salvadoran dining experience can be found at Restaurant Bahia de Jiquilisco at 4633 Clayton Road. Other than traditional taqueria items, they offer unique Salvadoran dishes including Ziquini Pupusas, Sopa de Pata, and Caldo de Res.
My personal Taco Trail does not end with these great places. Los Tacos de Pancho (#7), conveniently located across from Concord BART, has tasty food. Their Taco Tuesday specials of carnitas and carne asada are always welcome on evenings I prefer not to cook.
Noteworthy is one of my favorites, Taqueria Los Arcos (#8) at 4530 Clayton Rd. Located in the space Taco Bell once occupied, they are open until 10 p.m. Their crispy tacos and tamales provide frequent take-out for me. I get in trouble if I don’t pick up some of their hot churros.
All things considered, Concord has some of the best South of the Border cuisine in the region, as Visit Concord will attest.
Richard, r u related to fred and robert eber?