Entering the premises of Il Cardeto Sapori in Umbria, Italy this was not my first rodeo experiencing Italian family-style cuisine. I have fond memories from the Bay Area, enjoying Negri’s and the Union Hotel in Occidental when returning with my parents from the Russian River.
Antipasta, minestrone soup, salad, pasta, a main course, and spumoni ice cream were offered at an economical price. A similar menu could be found at Sodini’s Green Valley Restaurant in San Francisco’s North Beach district.
Today, these places no longer offer the prix fixe meals of yesteryear. Recently, while on vacation in Italy, I had the pleasure of partaking in Italian family-style dining.
My wife and I were eager to compare the quality of food served in Italy to what we have partaken in locally. Our benchmark is Il Pavone, located at 2291 Olympic Blvd in Walnut Creek. Second-generation Italian brothers Marcello and Nick have crafted a restaurant that meets the criteria of fine dining served in their homeland.
Our favorite place to eat in Italy was Il Cardeto, located midway on the drive from Rome to Florence (20 kilometers south of Orvieto). It met my highest culinary standards.
Thanks to my friends Marc and Gabby, we were able to partake in two meals there. Seating (not counting outside) is limited to about 24 tables. With dinner taking a leisurely two and a half hours or more, there is little turnover to accommodate new patrons.
Our Calabrian feast began with freshly baked Italian bread dipped in locally grown, fragrant olive oil. It was so good that we brought several liters home.
Then a pitcher of locally vintaged red wine, included with our 19-euro-per-person tab, was served. Later, refilling it, our waiter remarked, “Our wine costs the restaurant less than Coca-Cola.” If vino snobs badmouth this so-called “Dago Red” product, I will fight them tooth and nail.
After our main course selections were taken, pasta was served. The first time coming to Il Cardeto, I had tagliatelle, which featured broad ribbons encased in a light mushroom sauce.
The serving was so large that it could have easily been a main course. All of these selections have rich, intense flavor, so drowning them with an excessive amount of liquid is unnecessary.
I also tried the pappardelle with beef ragù. On my second night, gnocchi with a red, spicy fish sauce was enjoyed. Both dishes were equally delicious.
Pasta, main courses, and vegetable selections change daily; thus, the limited Il Cardeto Sapori menu never gets boring.
For my first visit, I tried a grilled pork chop that was accompanied by locally produced Italian sausage. At my friend’s suggestion, I sprinkled a tiny bit of olive oil on top of the chop. Wow!
My second entrée consisted of grilled beef covered by a creamy, scaloppini-like sauce. Others at my table enjoyed a rare beef filet and a chicken dish. No one complained.
The vegetable selection was eggplant with porcini mushrooms. My other visit featured young turnip greens sautéed in olive oil. This reminded me of Original Joe’s spinach in Walnut Creek.
Combined, these delicacies created a state of Calabrian culinary euphoria. I could not believe how good this place is.
Our dining experience was not complete. My wife and I split a tiramisu. During our trip, we tried this Italian delicacy at every meal. Il Cardeto’s was excellent—light, creamy, with just a hint of espresso flavor; it was perfect.
Fortunately, there was no fight for the last bite, as we also ordered a crème brûlée. It was the best rendition of this classic dessert I have had in some time.
But wait, there’s more! An espresso and shot of locally produced limoncello completed our gourmet experience. If ever I return to Italy, this restaurant will definitely be on my culinary itinerary.
For those not desiring a large meal, Il Cardeto also offers homemade, square, Roman-style pizza. I did not try it, but following my foray to their kitchen, there is no doubt in my mind the restaurant’s expertise with pizza matches their other creations.
Reservations are highly recommended, especially during the summer months, even though outside dining can accommodate additional summer tourist trade visiting Umbria.
Overall, the cuisine in Italy is far superior to the Bay Area. For these people, culinary excellence is a way of life. Il Cardeto personifies Italian food at its best. Locally, the cuisine we enjoyed in Europe sets the bar high for me.
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